The Aegean:Minoan and Mycenaean dress

The Aegean region and in particular the island of Crete, which was inhabited from about 6000 BC, can be considered the cradle of western European culture. Settlers came to Crete from areas farther east—from Anatolia, North Africa, Syria, and Palestine. By 2500 BC the Cretan civilization was becoming established and, as a maritime people with extensive trade in the Mediterranean and the Middle East, was influenced by many sources. The Cretans created a society and a dress style of their own, one dissimilar from the earlier one of Egypt and the later of Greece. The greatest and most prosperous years were from 1750 to 1400 BC; this was the time of the building of the great palaces, notably Knossos, from where the remains of coloured frescoes, painted vases, and sculpture in marble, terra-cotta, and coloured ceramics have been excavated and are on display in the museums of Iráklion and Athens. Even finer and more complete frescoes have been preserved from the more recent excavations of the Minoan city on the island of Thera (Thíra), an island largely destroyed in the cataclysmic volcanic eruption of about 1500 BC.
Cretan dress is characterized by its vivid colouring, elegance, and sophistication. It is also notable for the gaiety of feminine attire, typical of a society where women—unlike that of classical Greece—are depicted side-by-side with men, taking part in all the activities of life and not relegated to the domestic background.


Men's garments were few. Chief of these was a loincloth of wool, leather, or linen, tightly belted at the waist and arranged as a short, elaborately decorated skirt. The belt was drawn tight to contrast the slender waist (presuming that the man had one) with the masculine breadth of chest. By 1750 BC women were wearing a long bell-shaped skirt, often in a series of flounces, over a loincloth; with this, they wore a bolero-like jacket that had elbow-length sleeves but was open in front, leaving the breasts bare. In the later period a boned bodice was worn, constricting the upper torso but accentuating the full, bare breasts above. (This is the first recorded example in Europe of corseting constriction of the figure and remained an isolated instance for centuries.)
The Cretans liked bright colours, and their dress was vividly embroidered and decorated. The hair of both sexes was worn long, looped and braided and dressed with jewels, pearls, and ribbons. The Cretans bathed frequently, oiling their bodies afterward. Men were generally clean-shaven.
Outdoors both sexes wore sandals or shoes. In winter calf-length boots were adopted, and short woolen, fur-lined cloaks were fastened by pins around the shoulders.
With the collapse of the Minoan civilization in Crete about 1400 BC, a new culture arose on the mainland in the Peloponnese, notably in the maritime principalities of Mycenae, Tiryns, and Pylos. As the frescoes from the palace of Tiryns illustrate, the costume was similar but richer still.



Priest-king wearing elaborate loincloth attached to a tight, broad belt. Fresco from the palace at … Andre Held, Switzerland